Lyman Power Deburring tool, Is the LED charging indicator light meant to go out when it is fully charged?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

I plugged my new lyman power deburring tool into the power to charge it, and the little LED indicator light came on saying it was charging, but when I came back 10 minutes later, it had gone out. Does this mean it is fully charged? or is it faulty? Is the light meant to go out or not?
The operating instructions don’t say if it’s meant ot go out or not

There is a little paper that came with it called "operating instructions". Ever hear of those before?

It’s a case deburring tool used in reloading, Eagle.

Filed under power tool | 2 Comments »

Does anyone know of a good source of cheap reconditioned tools, particularly air compressors, on the web?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin


Few things are as sure to me in life as there are no good, cheap tools or equipment. Tool Crib of the North sells factory reconditioned equipment from manufacturers like DeWalt, Porter-Cable and others. These sell for about 80% of the price of a new one and carry a new warranty. There are other sources or reconditioned equipment, you could try local factory service centers or Googe reconditioned compressors, but you will get what you pay for.

Filed under tools air | 6 Comments »

What tools would I need to get started in WoodWorking?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

For power tools would I need a Miter Saw, a Circular Saw, and a Jigsaw? Also, does Bosch or DeWalt make better saws. And if Bosch or DeWalt don’t make good saws who does? I want to have a reasonably priced saw that works good, I sorta have a budget since im 15. Thanks!
lol, i wish i did have someone to help me.

Immediate needs: Orbital sander, cordless drill, jig saw, circular saw, good set of bits.

When you can afford them: Router, biscuit joiner, miter saw (go with the Bosch or a Hitachi), compressor/finish nailer/brad nailer, table saw, jointer, dust collection system.

Down the road: Second router, trim saw, second cordless, and upgrading any of the tools you have. Get a good book on making jigs and fixtures. These can save you a ton of time and effort if you do a project often. Don’t forget about all of the consumables (nails, screws, stain/paint/varnish, glue, etc.). Woodworking is a great hobby. Good luck to you.

I Need a web site that’ll give me a trial version of Microsoft office tools.?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

I’m looking for a website that will give me access to Microsoft Office tools as a trial / free, or maybe just Word and powerpoint at a student discounted rate. Can anyone refer me?

http://office.microsoft.com/

What tools are needed to change the rear brake caliper on a 1990 honda prelude?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

We are going to change my sister’s while we are visiting her but need to know what tools to bring with us. Thanks!

I’m not familiar with a 90 prelude per se, but, assuming you are going to *change the caliper* and that you dont mean change the pads or rotor, here’s what *I* would bring.

1) A set of hex wrenches
The caliper is attached with two hex bolts. Unbolt them, and off it comes. That simple.
2) A hammer. Because its not always THAT simple. Tap the caliper, it might be stuck if the pads are worn down, crudded up, or stuck to the rotor.
3) Small wrenches. LIke 1/4" or so. The brake line fastens to the caliper with a smll fitting that screws into the caliper body. Unscrew it, and detach the brake line. It will leak.
4) A 6" c-clamp. I dont know why you need this if you are installing a NEW caliper, but bring it anyway. I use this to push the caliper piston BACK into the body of the caliper itself, when installing new brake pads. If you have a new caliper, it will already be retracted. BUT, if you have purchased used from the junkyard, you will have to push the piston back in yourself. Balance an old brake pad on top of the piston, and then squeeze it with the clamp. DO NOT SUQEEZE THE PISTON WITHOUT AN OLD BRAKE PAD FOR PROTECTION.
5) a CLEAN – repeat – a surgiaclly CLEAN mayonaise jar for bleeding the entire system back to the master cylinder. This MAY not be necessary, but have one on hand anyway. Put a couple of inches of Brake fluid in the jar, then dangle the brake hose in the fluid. Walk to the hood and open the master cylinder. pump the brakes, and air will be exhausted through the brake hose, release the brake and fluid will be sucked back in. Fill as needed. Rettach the brake hose using the 1/4 fitting to the caliper, but leave it 1/2 turn loose. Pump the brakes until it spits fluid out on the down-press, then tighten up full and release the brake. Then back of 1/2 turn, and press brake again. Repeat and repeat until you spit fluid with no air.
6) Big-ass can of brake fluid, DOT type, NOT the cheapo small can, you dont want to run out.

7) New pads. Replace the pads.

Thats all I can think of.

Filed under tools | 2 Comments »

Automotive Scan Tool questions? I am looking for a reliable scanner that can be use for a good range of cars.?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

I need it to read the error codes and also able to clear most engine check light and reset servicing information?

Check out Launch I’m using it in my shop servicing multi brands of vehicle and its ok it can scan codes and reset almost all kinds of vehicles….

At what time can I legally start using power tools, like electric saws, if I live in a residential area?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

Yes, about the noise.

The answer is not straightforward: it depends on the jurisdiction. But the law likely allows you to use some common sense. What really is done is that noise levels are measured in decibels to see if they exceed a threshold of safety. At other times, it may be set at a lower threshold at hours most people expect peace and quiet. Try to be considerate of your neighbors (that’s what being neighborly is all about). Here is what common sense tells me:

1) More people are bothered by early morning noise since they don’t want be suddenly awakened by the piercing noise of your circular saw or perhaps your drill. During weekdays (M-F), try not to start before 7 am, by which time dayworkers are getting up and getting ready for work. On the weekends, people like to sleep in late: I would say not to start hammering or sawing until 9 am, by which time most people feel like they have slept in. What about graveyard shift workers? First of all, they probably have not hopped in bed, and they have learned to get ear plugs if they want to get sleep during the daytime. Those ear plugs really should drown out the sound if worn properly. If you want to be really generous, buy ear plugs and offer then to people who try to sleep during the day. You might make a new friend.

2) More people are tolerant of noise in the evening before going to bed. I generally think that past 10 pm, the hammering and sawing must come to an end if it bothering someone (it might be 8 or 9 pm legally). A problem arises if you keep them from being able to concentrate on their favorite television series or DVD rental during the primetime hours of 7-11 pm. Just go ahead and try to do your work and see if one of the neighbors comes out to ask you to put it away. Try to make an accommodation with them (not everyone stays home at night, but they often go out).

3) Find out what the noise and peaceful neighborhood policies are from the local police department. Tell the police you want to use your power tools and you want to know your rights at a minimum. They should be helpful with you. At the very least you will know your rights. Some neighbors may even try to take that away from you, because some people are just plain disagreeable. Know your rights.

Why do the lug nuts in my car keep getting stuck and I have to break the stud, buy new & replace?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

Is it cause the shops use those pneumatic tools to screw them on and they get overtightened?

either somebody crossthreaded them and you need to replace them, or overtightened them to the point that you explained and you still have to replace them. its not really that hard to do. just take the tire off, you may have to take the caliper and / or drums off the back, and just tap them out with a hammer. you probably have to hit em pretty hard. then stick the new stud through the hole and thread the bolt down on it untill it tightens all the way and your done.

also the wrong size nut could be on the stud, but again would still reqire replacement.

Is power tools worth for the home use ??

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

Can this power tools be used for small home building work .

Which tools are you interested in? Sometimes you can buy a new tool, use it to finish a project, then sell it in "near new" condition in an online auction site. You can also buy tools the same way and save a lot of money.

Filed under power tools | 5 Comments »

Can someone give me a list of about 25 different hand tools? And seprate list of power tools?

Posted on November 29th, 2009 by admin

Not electrical or power tool, and a seperate list of 25 power tools?

Not real sure what you need but I’ll try.
1) screwdriver

2) hammer
3) hand saw
4) hole saw
5)Boring drill( hand operated)
6) leather awl
7) metal punch
8) level
9) planer
10) T-square
11) razor knife
12)metal scribe
13) chalk line
14) floor jackk
15) jac stands
16)carpenters pencil
17) mud trough
18) mudding knife
19) putty knife
20) paint roller
21) paint brush
22 ) paint tray
23) extension arm
24) mop
25)broom
now to the other…..screwgun,electric drill,drill press,circular saw,reciprocating saw,chainsaw,ram-set.nail gun,lathe,pipe bender,grinder,bench grinder,air brush,drill extensions for mixing paint and mud.,power washer,power paint sprayer,heating tool for removing decals,soldering gun,wood burning iron,welder,compressor,welding torches,etc…… hope I helped.All I could ink of so far! Oh and don’t forget safety glasses and gloves!!!!! Good luck!

Filed under hand tools | 1 Comment »

  • Categories

  • Pages

  • Tags

  • Archives

  • Meta

  •